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A Guide to Sihanoukville, Cambodia.
There isn't much in Sihanoukville. Just beaches; a lot of sand and water, and endless hammocks tied between thick Palm trees. Oh, and the rows of beach-side pubs are a real hassle to walk around. You are almost forced to sit and have a chilled 85 cent Heineken before you bathe in the sun and cool yourself in the clear ocean waters. This place is a a forest in what can seem like a choking desert. If you're coming down from Siem Reap or over from Vietnam then Sihanoukville is a welcome sight to the road weary. It's a great place to relax and unwind on the beach after all that bus, boat and train travel through the dusty inland. No one was flying in when I was last in Sihanoukville in July 2007. I went to the airport and checked because I knew of the fatal crash that happened the month before. A PMT Air flight from Siem Reap to Sihaoukville crashed, killing everyone abord. Since then there has been no service. I know that Sihanoukville Airport will be offering (Or so they purport) international flights by the beginning of 2008. They must be extending the runways as we speak. Normally the airport is equipped for smaller aircraft only. Fly if ya like. PMT Air. I went back to Sihanoukville in July 2007. What a lot of changes! There is a central bus station now where everyone gets off their respective buses. Unless you fly in of course! I arrived in Sihanoukville on a bus from Phnom Penh. Tickets from Phnom Penh cost between $3USD and $4USD. That's with the Mekong Express bus service. The bus leaves the bus station at 87AEo, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. Mekong Express don't have their own website so you'll have to phone them @(855) 23 427 519. As soon as I got off the bus, I was immediately attacked by flyer wielding assailants. They were screaming the names of the Guesthouses they they each represented; racing towards med. I dodged and weaved but they cornered me between a fence and a brick wall. But I was wiry and jumped over that wire fence like a monkey on speed. Just smoke remained where my butt had been! But seriously, it is a war or was as of July 2007 this year. The previous time I was there in 2002, it was just hassles from moto drivers vying for business. No big deal. But now there are even westerners (Brits and Ozzies etc.) that practically attacked me, waving flyers in my face for their prospective Guesthouses. The names of the three worst were Cool Banana, The Curry House and Monkey Republic. The lady from Monkey Republic was so pushy and aggressive that it was scary. I found foamed saliva on my Thai Coca-Cola T-Shirt later that night and figured it came from her. Seriously though, It is my belief that all flyers be distributed at the bus station by Cambodian Nationals or people who can just RELAX. A few Cambodians were there handing out flyers but seemed too frightened to join in the slaughter. But I had a plan. I got off the bus with my Guesthouse receipt held high in the air so everyone could see it. When they first saw my face, they took great gasps of hope. But as their eyes rose to the Guesthouse receipt in my hands they exhaled; disappointed. It wasn't intelligence on my part but laziness. I booked a room at Coaster's Bungalows on Ochheuteal Beach, where I'd stayed before. I liked it alot the last time and decided just to book it online again. A few Cambodian guys were lurking at the back of the tornado of backpackers and flyer-wielders at battle. They saw my held-high receipt and called out my name. They were from the Guesthouse to pick me up. "Are you the butt-head who booked online?" One of them asked as he cleared a path through the battle. He didn't really look at me but around at the other backpackers being mauled by the flyer toting mob. "That's me." They escorted me out of the crowd. They parted easily. It must be taboo to mess with another Guesthouses' customer. I opened the door of the Guesthouse van and the air-conditioning hit me and I felt I had done well. It cost me just $3USD more to book the room online and it was worth it. Here's a cool map that you can really use to have a good look around the city. Just zoom in or out with the controls on the top left corner of the map. It's a sattelite image of Sihanoukville. Maybe it's stupid but I put it up because I think it's cool. I was driven to the Guesthouse on Ochheuteal beach. You can see Ochheuteal Beach down the far left of the map; one up from Otres Beach at the very bottom. At the top of the map you have Victory Beach and along the sides are Independence beach first, then Sokha beach and the third beach down is Occheuteal beach. I had to include this video below. It's short and yet provides a great overhead view of Sihanoukville. The guy in the video films his ride over Sihanoukville in a lawn-mower-powered light airplane. Wicked Flyover of Sihanoukville: In the video you saw most areas in Sihanoukville. You saw the beach and the inland houses of the locals, living away from the rich foreigners lying on the beach and sipping banana shakes. It's beautiful countryside with the palm trees and the majestic blue color of the sea always glimmering in the background. On the map you can find the "Seven Wonders of Sihanoukville". That's just something I made up so ignore it; but there are really are only seven things to see. Most of the "Wonders" are beaches as most people are there to relax on the beach. I'll list the "Seven Wonders of Sihanoukville" quickly here and you can click on the heading if you want to know more. The most popular beaches are Occheuteal, Sokha, Independence and Victory Beaches. Ream National Park is 18 km from Sihanoukville in the south-east of Cambodia. It's a patch of land 210km² in size; 150 km² of which is land and the other 60 km² is water or a 'Marine Habitat'. That sounds boring but it is frigging beautiful. The park is well kept with pristine beaches, mangrove forests, tropical jungles and over 150 different kinds of birds. They even have the dive-bomb bird. It can't fly but it keeps climbing the trees and then jumping with its wings stretched wide. But the bird just can't fly and doesn't seem to realize it. It just hits the ground in a thud and a wheeze every time. What a bird! The park is also renowned for its monkey population. Some people don't like monkeys but these ones stayed away from me and everyone else. They just made farting sounds with their fat lips and screamed as loud as they could. Also known as Bamboo Island, Ko Russei is an hour by boat from Sihanoukville. I was not sure why they chose this Island over the many others in the area as the 'One to go to'. After seeing the beaches, I know why. The beach is located on the Southern end of Ko Russei. They really are wondeful beaches. Pristine is the water and the sand is like god's tears between your toes. The best part is the lack of harrassing massage/pedicure/craft sales people that are a constant nuisense on the mainland beaches.
I can't think of any reason to go to the city center unless you need a doctor or you love hanging on barstools in foreign run pubs with girls on your arms telling you how handsome you are. I'm ugly so I prefer the pubs in the beach hotels where the wind blows in off the water, the beer is cool and the repetitive sounds of the waves can be timed to match that of your drinking rate. The City Center is, however, where all major transport routes begin and end. Victory beach is most ideally orientated for watching the sun set. It faces West so you get a good view that overlooks the islands. Once darkness has taken its moment you can watch the fishing boats way out at sea, blaring their lights into the water beneath their bows to entice their catch into their nets at the surface. Weather station hill is at your back if you are facing the water. It's about a 10 minute hike back up there where there are many Guesthouses. I had a walk through some of them and wouldn't recommend any of them except for the few that are further down the hill, away from Victory Monument.
Independence Beach runs along the left-hand side of the map. It is closest to Victory Beach but faces North. The beach was named after the old Independence Hotel. When I found out the beach had been named after the hotel, I laughed. If you see direction signs anywhere around Sihanoukville directing you to '7-Chann Beach', then follow them if you want to arrive at Independence Beach. For some reason '7-Chann Beach' and Independence Beach are one in the same. (('otel bram-pul chann ('hotel 7-storeys') are some of the locally used names)).
Independence Beach is pretty long and narrow, especially when the tide is in. Actually it sucks when the tide is in but when the tide is out, the Grass Umbrellas, Seafood Shacks and Drink Vendors come out as well. Independence Beach is, in general, less frequented than other beaches, and sees comparatively few foreign visitors. It's a good beach to escape some of the hustle and bustle of more touristed beaches like Ochheuteal while still having access to a selection of little beach bars and seafood shacks.
This is a small beach best known because of the restaurant that graces its shores. That sounds funny but every expat I talked to raved about Treasure Island Seafood Restaurant and the seafood served there. 'Ko' is actually Khmer language for 'island' and 'Pos' is translated as 'Snake'. There is a small island just offshore and you can get a boat ride there from Ko Pos Beach quite easily. Nothing really to see on the island including its average beaches. But the boat ride over is heaven. For me the boat trips to the islands I visited were the best part every time. Ko Pos Beach is small and was considered secluded when I first went there but now there are monkeys that will come and steal your bag. No joke! Watch out for the little buggers. But they didn't come near my stuff until I was away from it in the water doing the backstroke. Overall, great place for seafood and not much else. Ko Pos Island is a waste of time. Nothing great there even though the boatmen willing to take you out there are abundant. The beach is named after Ko Pos (Snake Island) which lies just offshore. Ko Pos is best visited from Hawaii Beach, just around the headland from Ko Pos beach, where there are no shortage of boatmen who'll whisk you over there. A trip out to Ko Pos is pleasant enough, but the beaches are nothing too magnificent.
This place is a Sihanoukville secret. I don't really want it to become a tourist hot spot but I really don't know why it's not as frequented by more...people. When I want to have a day of my own, then I rent a motorbike and drive out here. It's a nice day to sit under a thatched umbrella, sip a cold beer and look out onto the water as you decide what to order from the restaurant. All the bars and restaurants are clustered at the far end of the beach. Some include the Star Bar, Cantina Del Mar and the Daiquiri Hut. Each restaurant keeps a scattering of umbrellas on the beach and there were boats and kayaks for rent. Star Bar had a few bungalows on the beach for rent. I have not stayed there but the bungalows were basic....and $5USD a night. Otres Beach is the last beach to the South or the bottom left of the map above. You can get there easily with a motorbike. Just drive over the hill from Ochheuteal Beach and you can cut through Queen Hill Resort at the top and then arrive at Otres Beach on the Bottom. By car (For whimps too frightened to rent a motorbike). You have to head down Kanda street until it comes to an end or a 'T'. Go left, continue over the bridge and continue for about a kilometer. You should see a sign that you take a left turn at and from there it is about a 0minute drive to the beach. These are directions I got from a Cabbie and I paid him $2USD so...don't sue me.
This is nothing more than a fishing village. I wouldn't swim here but there are a few good seafood stalls around and it is a hub for boats going out to the islands, including Ko Pos. You can get a boat at Hawaii beach to take you around to the islands. A full day shouldn't be more than $20USD for a full day out. Take your swim trunks and sun-lotion and make sure they have coolers for the beer. Don't expect them to have all the amenities on board is what I learned.
Sokha Beach is by far the best of any of the beaches in Sihanoukville. Sokha Beach is owned and dominated by the Sokha Beach Hotel. It was the first high-end hotel to come to Sihanoukville. And everyone knows that. But the beach is fairly quiet compared to Ochheuteal and Serendipity beaches. I like that. It's not that I'm against other people being on the beach but the vendors and sellers on the beaches at Ochheuteal and Serendipity won't leave you alone at times. Plus I'm ugly and when I take my shirt off, women actually run. The sand is so fine that it gets stuck between the lines on your skin. The water seems temperature controlled and the ground slopes gently into the turquoise blue ocean. It's obvious why this beach was the first claimed of any of the other beaches in Sihanoukville. The whole beach is controlled by the Sokha Beach resort but they don't kick anyone off who might be staying at another resort (Or cheap Guesthouse), even when we come around with our multi-colored towels and easy, relaxed sway. But, they might kick you off if you walk around drunk in your ripped Speedos. People would beg them to, anyway. The beach is clearly maintained by them but it's o.k. to walk around the resort and sit in the beach chairs. T here are no little seafood shacks on Sokha like the other beaches but a series of grass umbrellas, gazebos, beach bars and restaurants run by the Sokha Beach Resort. If you have the money, Sokha Beach Resort is a great place to go for dinner and sit on the patio; the waves rolling in and the stars lighting the sky. It's way overpriced for what you get but the location is so nice and the service is excellent. You can call them and book the best seat on the patio or a day in the renowned spa at (855)34 935-999 or 855-34 935-888. Hang up fast if they try and book you into a room, though. They start at $100USD a night and just go up from there. 'Serendipity Beach' is a term you'll hear occasionally. It just refers to the top section of Ochheuteal Beach. This is where you'll find some of Shihanoukville's best hotels, A few mid-range places, and lots of bungalows. And because of all of this, you get the most touristy part of Sihanoukville. I admit that I should be out looking for those little hideaways for people looking for info on Sihanoukville, but I just wanted the least amount of hassle on this trip. I came to relax. Click above for some more info on Ochheuteal Beach.
This is kind of the 'Gem' or 'inside' place. It's like everything, though. If you want to uncover an unspoiled beach then you have to go far and accept less. People find stuff fast and word travels even faster in Sihanoukville. I hung around town in a few of the expat bars and Prek Treng Beach (Also called 'Hun Sen Beach') was said to be the only beach left that is usually deserted. Maybe it's just an Urban Myth. My Rant:There is nothing Wow about the beaches here in Sihoukanville. They are nice, but if you've been through Thailand to Ko Samui or Ko Chang then you won't find the beaches in Sihanoukville special.
Sihanoukville is a nice place but the beaches are not as good as the ones in Thailand but better than those in Vietnam. There are many things to do. You can get very drunk and run with the pigs in the street or you can sit back in a comfortable chair on a beach-front patio and sip Chi-Chis. You can guess which one I chose to do at the time. I love the beaches and the people are relaxed and peaceful. The beaches sure beat Thailand if you're looking to get away from the mega-hotels and flocking tourists. Of course, the facilities are sparse compared to Thailand but the beach is quiet and wonderful yet can be Dangerous. FAQs:Q: What are the best places to go for Medical Care?
CTT Medical Clinic International Peace Hospital Q: Dude. I love the sattelite map. Where did ya get it? A: You can download Google Earth Here. It is free and the full program is incredible. Q: What if I need a Policeman? A: Police headquarters is located 1.5 km west of the city center on Ekareach St. Q: Where is the Post Office? A: The new main Post Office is now near the Victory Park on the left hand side of the road as you go to Vicory hill. Q: Is there any Scuba Diving to be done in Sihanoukville? A: There is some great diving close to the mainland, but for those who want to stay a little longer and venture a little further, there are world class dive sites such as Condor Reef and Poulo Wai waiting to be explored. The diving season is from late October to May/June and visibility typically ranges from 10-25+ meters.  Leave Sihanoukville page and read about Phnom Penh.
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